Electrical, Plumbing & HVAC Guide

When 100 amps is no longer enough:

• EV charger: A Level 2 EV charger draws 30–50 amps. If your 100-amp panel is already near capacity, there's no room for this load without an upgrade.
• Large home addition: Adding significant square footage requires additional circuits. An addition with a kitchen, bathrooms, and HVAC can add 40–60+ amps of demand.
• Older home with original panel: Homes built before 1970 often have 60–100 amp panels that are undersized for modern electrical loads (air conditioning, multiple computers, large appliances). Panels with Federal Pacific or Zinsco breakers should be replaced regardless of capacity — these brands have documented safety issues.
• Frequent breaker trips: If circuits trip regularly under normal use, your panel may be at or beyond its safe capacity.

What a 200-amp upgrade involves:

• New 200-amp panel box and breakers
• New meter base (the utility company's connection point)
• Coordination with the utility company (they disconnect and reconnect service)
• Possible upgrade of the service cable from the utility pole/underground
• Permit and inspection (always required for electrical panel work)

Cost: $1,500–$5,000 for a straightforward upgrade. Can reach $5,000–$10,000 if the service entrance cable, meter base, and grounding system all need replacement.

Signs you need it:

• Aluminum wiring: Used in homes built between 1965–1973. Aluminum wiring connections can overheat and cause fires. Entire rewire or pigtailing with copper at every connection point is recommended.
• Knob-and-tube wiring: Found in homes built before 1950. No ground wire, no protection against water contact, can't handle modern loads. Many insurance companies won't cover homes with active knob-and-tube wiring.
• Frequently tripping breakers: Under normal loads suggests undersized wiring.
• No grounded outlets: Two-prong outlets throughout the house mean the wiring has no ground — a safety issue for modern electronics and appliances.

What the process involves:

• Running new Romex (NM-B) wiring through walls, ceilings, and floors
• New outlets, switches, and junction boxes throughout
• Arc-fault (AFCI) and ground-fault (GFCI) protection where required by current code
• New panel to accommodate the new circuits
• Patching walls where access was needed

Cost: $8,000–$30,000+ for a whole-home rewire. Varies significantly based on home size, number of stories, wall access (open vs. finished walls), and local labor rates. Doing this during a major renovation saves significantly vs. standalone — walls are already open.

How to identify what you have:

Cost: $4,000–$20,000+ for a whole-home repipe with PEX. Copper repiping costs 40–60% more than PEX due to material and labor (soldering vs. crimping).

When to repair vs replace:

• Age: Most HVAC systems last 15–20 years. If your system is 15+ years old and needs a repair over $1,000, replacement often makes more financial sense.
• Refrigerant: Systems using R-22 (Freon) are obsolete — R-22 is no longer manufactured and the cost to recharge is prohibitive. If your system uses R-22, plan for replacement.
• Efficiency: Older systems may be 8–10 SEER. Modern systems are 14–25+ SEER. The energy savings on a high-efficiency system can be significant.

SEER rating — what to specify:

• 14 SEER: Current minimum code requirement in most regions. Adequate for mild climates.
• 16–18 SEER: Good balance of efficiency and cost for most homes. Recommended for hot climates where AC runs frequently.
• 20+ SEER: Variable-speed systems that modulate output. Extremely efficient, very quiet, excellent humidity control. Premium price but lowest operating cost.

Dual-fuel systems: A heat pump paired with a gas furnace. The heat pump handles heating efficiently down to about 30–35°F, then the gas furnace takes over for extreme cold. Ideal for moderate climates with occasional cold snaps.

Mini-split considerations: Ductless mini-splits are excellent for additions, converted garages, and rooms with persistent temperature problems. Each unit provides independent heating and cooling. Cost: $3,000–$6,000 per zone installed.

Ductwork assessment: New equipment on old ductwork is like putting a new engine in a car with bald tires. If your ductwork is leaky, undersized, or poorly insulated, the new system won't perform to its rated efficiency. Have the contractor assess ductwork condition and recommend sealing, insulation, or replacement as needed.